The most accurate pattern for the base of the dress. Basic dress pattern (Roslyakova). Step by step construction. Shoulder line slope

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Hello, dear readers!
When sewing simple clothes, you can do without a pattern; for clothes with complex styles, you will already need a pattern - a paper template from which fabric parts are cut out. If you choose between a finished pattern and a design drawing, I would recommend the second option.
Even if you are new to sewing, pattern making will help you quickly understand and master the principles of clothing design. In addition, the pattern is made according to your individual measurements, which means that the future product will fit well on your figure; ready-made patterns do not guarantee such a result, since each of us has our own anatomical features of the figure. And lastly, pattern making is an interesting and exciting process!
In this article, we will learn how to build a basic pattern for a dress using Tatyana Roslyakova’s method.
In the last article, we learned how to take measurements that we will need for a dress pattern. Let me remind you that the design drawing is made only for half of the figure, so measurements of volume and width are recorded in half size. Below is a table in which I have written my measurements as an example. Using these standards, I will make calculations, and you must substitute your data.

Name of measurements and symbols	cm
Half neck circumference (Ssh)
Half chest circumference (Сг)	40,5
Half waist (St)
Half hip circumference (Sb)	44.5
Back length to waist (Lts)
Back Width (Shs)	16,5
Front length to waist (Dtp)
Chest Height (Vg)
Center of the chest (CG)
Shoulder Length (Dp)
Product length (Di)

In addition to measurements, we will need allowances for loose fit (FO). These increases are added to almost all measurements when drawing a structure; they are needed for freedom of movement and breathing. Depending on the silhouette of the product, the allowance for a loose fit varies in size. The allowances also differ for styles of clothing (trousers, jackets, coats, etc.), moreover, there are separate allowances for different types of fabrics. Different methods for creating patterns indicate different increases for the same silhouettes and styles, so it is very important to pay attention to the increases that are indicated in the method. But for now we are learning to build the basis of the dress, so I offer you two silhouettes: fitted and semi-fitted with the following increases:

Please note that the increases shown in the table are added entirely to half measurements. That is, if the chest girth measurement is 81 cm, then the half chest girth = 40.5 cm; for a close-fitting silhouette, an increase in loose fit of 3 cm is added to 40.5 cm, this means that the future product along the chest line will be 6 cm larger. In addition, the increase along the chest line is distributed among the pattern pieces in the following ratio:
back width - 30%
shelf width - 20%
Armhole width - 50%.

distribution of increase along the chest line

I will indicate all allowances for loose fit to these and other measurements in the formulas when creating the pattern. In this article we will build a dress with a fitted silhouette.
Let's start with the drawing . It is necessary to prepare a sheet of paper, the length of which should be 10-15 cm greater than the length of the future dress. If you have never made patterns before, I would advise you to make all the drawings on graph paper in a roll, which can be purchased at an office supply store. It's a pleasure to draw on this paper! The drawings are accurate and smooth. Dress length . In the upper left corner of a sheet of paper, draw a right angle with its vertex at point P, departing 5 cm from the top edge. From point P down in a straight line we put aside a value equal to the length of the dress and put a point H (segment PH = Di = 85 cm).

Dress width. From point P to the right, we will set aside the half-circumference of the chest + 3 cm (increase for a loose fit), and put point P 1 (segment PP 1 = Cr + CO = 40.5 + 3 = 43.5 cm). From point H to the right, we will set aside a segment equal to PP 1 and place point H 1 (segment HH 1 = PP 1 = 43.5 cm). Connect points P 1 and H 1

Waistline . From point P downwards, we put the measurement of the length of the back to the waist + 0.5 cm and set point T (RT = Dts + CO = 40 + 0.5 = 40.5 cm). From point T to the right we draw a straight line until it intersects with straight line P 1 H 1 and denotes the intersection point as T 1 .

Hip line . From point T downwards, we will set aside 1/2 of the length of the back to the waist and place point B (TB=1/2Dts=40:2=20cm). From point B to the right we draw a straight line until it intersects with the line P 1 H 1, and we denote the intersection point as B 1.

Back width . From point P to the right, set aside the width of the back + 0.9 cm and place point P 2 (PP 2 = Шс+СО=16.5+0.9=17.4 cm). From this point we draw down a straight line of arbitrary length

Armhole width . From point P 2, set aside 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest + 1.5 cm and place point P 3 (P 2 P 3 = 1/4 Cr + CO = 40.5: 4 + 1.5 = 11.6 cm). Attention! The segment P 2 P 3 is the width of the armhole, therefore, you need to select the resulting value of this segment for yourself; in the future we will use this value. Down from point P 3 we draw a straight line of arbitrary length.

Back neck cut . From point P to the right we will set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement + 0.5 cm and place point P 4 (PP 4 = 1/3Сш+СО=15:3+0.5=5.5 cm). From point P 4 up, we will set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck + 0.8 cm and put P 5 (P 4 P 5 = 1/10Csh + CO = 15:10 + 0.8 = 2.3 cm). Divide the angle with the vertex P 4 in half and draw a straight line, on this straight line we will set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck - 0.3 cm and put a point P 6 (P 4 P 6 = 1/10Сш-СО = 15:10-0.3 = 1 ,2cm). Let's connect points P, P 6 and P 5 with a smooth line, and the angle at point P should be straight.

Shoulder section of the back . From P 2 we put down 2.5 cm for normal shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping shoulders, 1.5 cm for high ones and put point P. Connect points P 5 and P, and on this straight line we set aside from P 5 the length of the shoulder + 2 cm for the dart and put P 1 (P 5 P 1 = Dp+2cm=13+2=15cm). Again, on this line from point P 5, set aside 4 cm and place point O (P 5 O = 4 cm). Down from point O we will set aside 8 cm and place point O 1 (OO 1 = 8 cm). To the right of point O, set aside 2 cm and place point O 2 (OO 2 = 2 cm). Let's connect points O 1 and O 2, on the resulting straight line from point O 1 the top will be set aside 8 cm and place point O 3 (O 1 O 3 = 8 cm). Now let's connect points O 3 and P 1.

Armhole depth . From P downwards we will set aside 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest plus 7cm (for stooped figures plus 7.5cm, for kinky figures plus 6.5cm) and put point G (PG=1/4Cr+CO=40.5:4+7.5= 17.6 cm). Through the point G we draw a straight line to the intersection with the line RN, denoting the point of intersection G 1, to the straight line P 1 H 1, denoting the point of intersection G 3, and the point of intersection with the straight line from the point P 3 we will denote G 2.

Back armhole cut . From G up, we will set aside 1/3 of the distance PG + 2 cm and set P 2 (GP 2 = 1/3 PG + CO = 17.6: 3 + 2 = 7.8 cm). Divide the angle at point G in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width + 1.5 cm and put point P 3 (GP 3 = 1/10Shpr + CO = 11.6:10 + 1.5 = 2.6 cm) divide line GG 2 in half and put G 4. Connect points P 1, P 2, P 3 and G 4 with a smooth line.

Front armhole cut . From G 2 up, set aside 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest + 5 cm (for stooped figures + 4.5 cm, for kinky figures + 5.5 cm) and put P 4 (G 2 P 4 = 1/4Cr + CO = 40.5: 4+ 4.5=14.6cm). From P 4 to the left we will set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the chest and put P 5 (P 4 P 5 = 1/10Сг = 40.5:10 = 4 cm). From G 2 up, we will set aside 1/3 of the segment G 2 P 4 and put P 6 (G 2 P 6 = 1/3 G 2 P 4 = 14.6: 3 = 4.8 cm). We connect points P 5 and P 6 with a dotted line and divide them in half, and set aside 1 cm from the division point to the right at a right angle. Divide the angle at point G 2 in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width + 0.8 cm and mark point P 7 (G 2 P 7 = 1/10Shpr + CO = 11.6:10 + 0.8 = 1.9) . Let's connect points P 5, 1, P 6, P 7, and G 4 with a smooth line.

Shelf neck cut . From G 3 up, set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the chest + 1.5 cm (for stooped figures + 1 cm, for kinky figures + 2 cm) and put P 7 (G 3 P 7 = 1/2Cr + CO = 40.5: 2 + 1 = 21.2 cm). From G 2 we will set aside the same value upward and place point P 8 (G 2 P 8 = G 3 P 7 = 21.2 cm). Connect points P 7 and P 8. Now from point P 7 to the left we will set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck + 0.5 cm and put P 9 (P 7 P 9 = 1/3Сш+СО=15:3+0.5=5.5 cm). Down from point P 7 we will set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck + 2 cm and place point P 10 (P 7 P 10 -1/3Сш+СО=15:3+2=7cm). Let's connect points P 9 and P 10, and divide the resulting segment in half. From point P 7 we draw a straight line through the dividing point of the segment P 9 P 10, and on this straight line we set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck + 1 cm and put point P 11 (P 7 P 11 = 1/3Сш+СО=15:3+1= 6 cm). Let's connect points P 9, P 11, P 10 with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point P 10.

Shoulder section of the front and breast dart line . From G 3 to the left, set aside the measurement of the center of the chest and put G 6 (G 3 G 6 = Cg = 9 cm). From G 6 we draw a line upward until it intersects with the line P 7 P 8, denoting the intersection point as P 12. From P 12 down, set aside the measurement of chest height and place the point G 7 (P 12 G 7 = Bg = 25 cm). From point P 12 we will put 1 cm down and put P 13 (P 12 P 13 = 1 cm). Connect points P 9 and P 13. And we connect points P 13 and P 5 with a dotted line. Along this line from point P5 to the right we set aside the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment P 9 P 13 and minus 0.3 cm, put point P 14 (P 5 P 14 = Dp-P 9 P 13 -0.3 = 13-3-0, 3=9cm). From point G 7 through point P 14 we draw a segment equal to the segment G 7 P 13 and place point P 15 (G 7 P 15 = G 7 P 13). Connect points P 5 and P 15.

Side seam line . From G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the width of the armhole and place a point G 5 (GG 5 = 1/3Wpr = 11.6:3 = 3.8 cm). Draw a vertical line through point G 5. At the intersection with the armhole line we will put point B, at the intersections with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom we will place points T 2, B 2, H 2.

Determining the solution of darts along the waist line . We add 1 cm to the half-waist measurement (St+CO=29+1=30 cm), subtract this value from the width of the dress along the TT line 1 (43.5-30=13.5 cm). Thus, we calculated the total amount of dart solutions along the waist line, i.e. 13.5 cm.

• the size of the front dart opening = 0.25 of the total dart opening (13.5 x 0.25 = 3.4 cm),

• side tuck opening size = 0.45 of the total opening (13.5 x 0.45 = 6 cm),

• back tuck opening size = 0.3 of the total opening (13.5 x 0.3 = 4.1 cm)

Determining the width of the dress along the hip line . Add 1 cm to the half-circumference of the hips (Sb + CO = 44.5 + 1 = 45.5 cm). From the resulting value, subtract the width of the dress along line BB 1 (45.5-43.5 = 2 cm). We will distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back (1cm each). Side dart . From B 2 to the left and to the right, we will set aside the resulting difference (in my example, 1 cm) and put points B 3 and B 4. From T 2 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the side dart solution (6:2 = 3 cm) and place T 3 and T 4. Let's connect point B to points T 3 and T 4. Connect points T 3, B 4 and T 4, B 3 with a dotted line, divide these segments in half, set aside 0.5 cm from the division points to the side and now connect them, draw a side cut through smooth lines through points T 3, 0.5 and B 3 and through points T 4, 0.5, B 4. Shelf waist line . From point P 7 down, set aside the measurement of the length of the front to the waist + 0.5 cm and put T 5 (P 7 T 5 = Dtp + CO = 42 + 0.5 = 42.5 cm). Connect points T 4 and T 5 with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point T 5.

Shelf hip line . From B 1 down, set aside the value of the segment T 1 T 5 and put B 5 (B 1 B 5 = T 1 T 5. Connect points B 3 and B 5 with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point B 5 Dart on the shelf . From G 6 down we draw a straight line until it intersects with line BB 1. We denote the intersections with the lines of the waist and hips with points T 9 and B 7. From T 9 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the front dart solution (3.4:2 = 1.7 cm) and place T 10 and T 11. From G 7 down, and from B 7 up, set aside 4 cm, put points and connect them with T 10 and T 11.

Back dart . Let's divide the segment GG 1 in half, and denote the division point as G 8. From G 8 we lower the line down until it intersects with the line BB 1. At the intersections with the waist line and the hip line we will place points T 6 and B 6. From T 6 to the left and right, set aside half of the back dart solution (4.1:2 = 2cm) and place T 7 and T 8. From G 8 down, set aside 1 cm, from B 6 up, set aside 3 cm. We connect these points to T 7 and T 8

Shelf bottom line . From B 3 and B 4 we draw lines down to the intersection with straight line HH 1 and designate points H 3 and H 4. From H1 downwards, we will set aside the value of the segment T 1 T 5 and place the point H 5 (H 1 H 5 = T 1 T 5). Connect points H 3 and H 5 with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point H 5.

Shelf - front part of the product

Neck - neckline

Armhole - cutout for sleeves (cut from shoulder to side seams to connect sleeves to bodice)

Dart - excess fabric tucked into the seam. Using darts, the necessary shapes are given to the product.
In addition to the dress, you can create a pattern for a single-seam set-in sleeve.

Information prepared based on the author's materials Valentina Nivina online resource

If you decide to sew a dress, the first thing you should start with is to take measurements and build a pattern that can be used to model any style. Today we will give you a step-by-step construction of the pattern for the base of the dress.
But first - .

To draw a drawing of the pattern-basis of a women's dress, you need to take measurements (size 48):

1. Bust 96 cm
2. Circumference above the chest 88 cm
3. Waist 76 cm
4. Hip circumference 102 cm
5. Hip height 20 cm
6. Front length to waist 47 cm
7. Back length to waist 43 cm
8. Shoulder length 12 cm
9. Neck circumference 38 cm
10. Center of chest (distance between high points of chest) 22 cm
11. Armhole depth 20.5 cm
12. Dress length 100 cm

IMPORTANT! All calculations performed when constructing a dress pattern are valid for a Bust Circumference (CG) of more than 80 cm.

Sewing School of Anastasia Korfiati
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Where to begin?

Before you start creating the base pattern for the dress, decide on the silhouette. It is important to determine for yourself what kind of dress you want to sew: tight-fitting, semi-tight-fitting or loose. Based on this, make an increase in the freedom of fit of the product.

We are building a dress with a close-fitting silhouette and adding 1.5 cm to the half-circumference of the chest (see).

Calculation of auxiliary values

Let's calculate the auxiliary values ​​that we will need when constructing the pattern:

Back Width (BW). Formula for calculation: 1/8 OG +5.5 cm=17.5 cm

Armhole Width (ShPr). Formula for calculation: 1/8OG -1.5 cm=10.5

Chest Width (CH). Formula for calculation: 1/4OG -4 cm = 20 cm

Armhole depth (GPr). We measure it or, to check the measurements, calculate it using the formula GPr = 1/10OG +10.5 = 20.5 cm. If the calculated value does not coincide with the measured value, take the average between them.

Step back 10-15 cm from the top of the sheet and place point A in the upper left corner. Down from point A, draw a vertical line 100 cm long (the length of the dress as measured). To the right of point A, draw a horizontal line with a length equal to 1/2 of the chest circumference according to the measurement of +1.5 cm (increase in freedom of fit) - points D and B are obtained - draw segments DC and BC.

Armhole line. From point A downwards, set aside the Armhole Depth according to the measurement + 0.5 cm (increase in freedom of fit from) - you have obtained point D. Draw a horizontal line GG1.

From point G to the right, set aside the Back Width +0 cm (to fit loosely) and the Armhole Width + 0.5 cm (to fit loosely), Chest Width + 1 cm. In total, we made an increase of 0+0.5+1=1.5 cm is the increase that we set above. Draw vertical lines from the resulting points upward until they intersect with AB.

Waistline. From point A down, set the length of the back to the waist according to the measurement - point T. Draw segment TT1.

Hip line. From point T, set aside 20 cm - the height of the hips as measured - point L. Draw a segment LL1.

Side line. Divide the width of the armhole with the increase in half, from the division point draw a vertical side line down until it intersects with DC. Divide the left and right auxiliary vertical lines of the armhole into 4 equal parts (red crosses).

Back neckline. From point A, set aside 6.8 cm to the right (1/6 of the neck circumference according to the measurement + 0.5 cm) and up 2 cm (for all sizes). Draw a curved line for the back neckline.

Back shoulder. On the left auxiliary line of the armhole, set aside 1.5 cm from the top down. Connect points 2 (back neckline) and 1.5 (shoulder slope) with a straight line, set aside along it Shoulder length according to measurement + 1 cm = 12+1=13 cm In the process of sewing the product, the length of the back shoulder is slightly adjusted.

Back armhole line. From the lower left corner (the width of the armhole), draw a bisector of the angle 2-2.5 cm long and, or by hand, draw an armhole for the back, based on the control points: point 13, the middle auxiliary dividing point, point 2, to the side line.

Lifting the shelf. From point T1, set aside 47 cm (front length to waist according to measurement) - you have obtained point W. From point W, draw a horizontal line to the left. Extend the right vertical line of the armhole upward (see Fig. 7).

Front neckline. From point W, set aside 6.8 cm to the left (1/6 of the neck circumference according to the measurement + 0.5 cm) and down 7.8 cm (1/6 of the neck circumference according to the measurement + 1.5 cm). Draw the front neckline along the pattern (or by hand) (Fig. 8).

Front shoulder to dart. From point 6.8 (neck), set aside 4 cm to the left and 1 cm down (for all sizes). Draw a short inclined section (Fig. 9).

From point 1 down, draw segment 1-G2 to the armhole line (GG1) so that G1G2 = 11 cm (1/2 measurement Center of the chest) - the right side of the chest dart is built.

Bust dart. Divide the right side of the chest dart in half and from the division point draw a horizontal segment 4 cm long (Half chest circumference minus Half circumference above the chest: 48-44 = 4 cm). Through point 4, draw the left side of the chest dart with a length equal to the length of the right side of the chest dart (Fig. 10).

Front shoulder line. Draw an auxiliary dotted line from the top point of the left side of the chest dart to the top dividing point of the auxiliary line of the back armhole (Fig. 11).

Along the auxiliary dotted line, set aside 8 cm (12 cm (shoulder length as measured) minus 4 cm (shoulder length to the right side of the bust dart) and down at a right angle 2 cm (for all sizes). Draw the front shoulder line (Fig. 12) .

From the extreme point of the front shoulder, draw an auxiliary dotted line to the lower point of division of the auxiliary line of the armhole, divide it in half (Fig. 13). From the lower right corner (armhole), draw a bisector 2 cm long.

From the point of division of the auxiliary dotted line, move 1 cm to the right at a right angle (Fig. 13). Using a pattern or by hand, draw the front armhole along the control points: point 2 (shoulder), point 1, point 2 (angle bisector), to the side line.

Calculation of darts:

Darts are calculated as follows: 1/2 Bust circumference minus 1/2 Waist circumference = 48-38 = 10 cm. This is excess fabric around the waist, which must be removed into darts. We put 1/3 of the obtained value in the side darts and 2/3 in the back and front - a little more in the back (4 cm) and a little less in the front (3 cm).

Side darts: 10 cm /3 = 3.3 cm (rounded - 1.5 cm in the back and in the shelf) (Fig. 14).

IMPORTANT! To calculate the lack of volume in the hips, we apply the formula: (hip circumference minus chest circumference) /4 = (102-96)/4 = 1.5 cm (set aside 1.5 cm along the hip line from the side line to the left and right and draw lines sides of the back and front of the dress.

Back tuck: Divide the width of the back waist to the side seam in half and from the division point draw a vertical line to the armhole line and the hip line. Draw a dart as shown in Fig. 15: Divide the distance T-1.5 in half, put a cross and draw a vertical dotted line through it up and down. Place 3-4 cm down from the armhole line, 2 cm up from the hip line. Construct a back dart 4 cm wide.

Front waist tuck. From the top of the bust dart, draw an auxiliary perpendicular to the waist line. From point G2, set down 5-6 cm and draw a dart 3 cm deep as shown in Fig. 15.

ADVICE! If you have a narrow waist and a “kinked” back, excess fabric can be tucked into the middle seam along the back and an additional dart (see Fig. 16 blue lines). To create an additional front dart, set 3 cm to the right from the lower right corner of the armhole and draw a vertical dotted line down to the hip line. From the armhole line along the auxiliary vertical dotted line, set aside 7-8 cm, from the hip line up - 1.5 cm. Build a dart 2 cm deep.

For additional fitting along the middle seam of the back, build a dart 1-1.5 cm deep and connect the resulting point with points L and D with a smooth line.

Rice. 17. Basic pattern of the back and front in finished form

If necessary, build or

A stylish fitted sheath dress should be present in every woman's wardrobe. Depending on the chosen material, this wardrobe detail can become either an attribute of a business wardrobe or a dress for going out.

It is sewn according to the basic dress pattern. Creating a pattern for the base of a dress is an important step in learning how to design clothes. This process requires care and consistency of actions, so I suggest watching a video about constructing a pattern for the base of a dress.

Video lesson:

Preparing for cutting

Before , How to create a sheath dress pattern, you need to take the measurements necessary for the work. The required measurements with ready-made values ​​are given in the table for the sample. In the “Value” field you need to enter your own dimensions:

To avoid inaccuracy in taking measurements, I also attach a table of typical measurements that are used in the Italian cutting system. It can be downloaded for free from the link:

(downloads: 138)

The measuring system is no different from the standard rules. The Italian construction method allows you to achieve a close-fitting silhouette of the dress.

Also for work you will need a table of allowances for a loose fit, which is shown in the photo:

Comment: to construct the dress we need an increase of 1 degree.

Constructing a pattern for the base of the dress

So, the construction of the pattern begins by placing point A in the upper left corner of the sheet. Next, from this point downwards we set aside a segment calculated by the formula: Size/24 + 0.2 cm. We put T.V. This distance will be equal to the depth of the neckline on the back.

Then again from t. A downwards we retreat 4.5 cm and place t. B1.

After this, we find the depth of the armhole and the position of t. C, i.e. from t. And down you need to set aside a segment equal to Height / 8 + Size / 24.

Next we find the location of point D - the value of the DTS, which we also put down from point A.

Now from the resulting t. D we put down the value of the WB measure and get t. E.

We find the last point F by setting aside a segment from point A equal to the DP measure.

Now we mark the neckline. To do this, from point A to the right we draw a segment that is equal to Size/6. Put t. G.

Again from point A, to the right we draw a line on which we mark point N. Distance AN = ShS/2

We move on to point C. To the right of it we lay a line on which we find the position of point C1. Section CC1 = OG/4 + 1/4 increase in freedom of fit (FSO).

Now from point D we also put point D1 to the right, which is located at a distance equal to OT/4 + 3 cm (dart) + 1/4 PSO.

We find the position of point E1; to do this, to the right from point E we set aside a segment that is equal to the value OB/4 + 1/4 PSO.

Point F1 is at the same distance from point F as point E1 is from point E, i.e. EE1 = FF1.

We connect points C1, D1, E1 and F1 with a smooth line. We have a side seam line ready.

From T. N we draw a line down. At the intersection with the segment CC1, point I is obtained. At a distance of 4.5 cm from point H, on the same line we place point L. We connect points L and B1:

We extend line B1L to the right. We find the position of point L1 on it. The distance B1L1 is equal to ШП/2. We connect point G and point L1.

From point I, along line HI, measure 5 cm up, 0.3 cm to the right. We get t. M. Draw a smooth line connecting t. L1, t. M and t. C1. This is the armhole line. From point L1, along the armhole line, measure down 9cm. We put a notch, which will be a control mark for sewing in the sleeve.

Let's move on to designing the dart. To do this, we find the position of point R by dividing DD1 in half. Draw a perpendicular line from the resulting point up and down. From the intersection with CC1 we go down 2cm and place point R1. Down from point R we go down 14 cm and get point R2. On line DD1 we lay off the segments RR3=RR4=1.5 cm. We connect point R1, point R3, point R2, point R4 with a straight line.

The back pattern is ready:

Let's start building the front half of the dress. Again we set t. A, from which we put down the value Height/8 + Size/24. We got t.S. This is the depth of the armhole.

The segment AD is equal to the value of the traffic accident, the segment DA1 is equal to the value of the traffic accident.

We get t. B, setting aside from t. A1 down the value Size/6 + 1 cm.

Find the position of point G. It is located at a distance equal to Size/6 to the left of point A1. From corner GA1B we draw a bisector. Find the position of B1 on the bisector. A1B1 = Size/6 + 0.5 cm. Draw a line for the neckline, connecting point G, point B1, point B.

From point D along line AD down we set aside the value of the measurement VB and set i.e. Next we find the position of point F. AF = DP.

We continue the straight line A1G to the left and place t. N on it. The distance A1H is equal to ШС/2 - 1 cm.

To the left of point C at a distance equal to OG/4 + 1/4 PSO, place point C1.

From point D to the left we put point D1, which is located at a distance of a segment that is equal to OT/4 + 3cm (dart) + 1/4 PSO.

EE1 = OB/4 + 1/4 PSO

We connect the found points with a smooth line and get a side seam line:

From t. H downwards we draw a straight line. At the intersection with CC1 we place point I. At a distance of 7.5 cm from point H we place point L.

From point L to the left we draw a straight line. Find the position of point L1. To do this, measure the segment GL1 in the drawing of the back and in the drawing of the front from point G we set aside a segment of the same size until it intersects with a line drawn from point L.

The segment A1N is equal to the value of the VG measure. To the left of point N we place point N, which is located at a distance of TG/2.

On line GL1 we place point G1, descending from point G down to a distance equal to Size/10 + 0.5 cm.

We draw a perpendicular line to segment GL1 and place point G2 at a distance of 1.6 cm from point G1.

We draw a line between point G2 and point N1. Up from point N1 we retreat 7.5 cm and place point N2. From this point we draw a perpendicular to the straight line G2N1 with a length of 2 cm.

We measure the length of the segment G2N1 and draw a line of the same length from point N1 so that it passes through the extreme point of the perpendicular. At the end we put t. G3.

On the drawing of the back, we measure the size of the segment GL1 and draw a straight line from point G on the drawing of the front of the same length, and this line should pass through points G2 and G3. At the end of the line we put point L2. We erase the line between point G2 and point G3.

We find the position of point M on the segment IN. To do this, we retreat upward from point I by 5 cm. T. M1 is located from T. M to the left at a distance of 2 cm.

Now we draw a smooth line between point C1, point M1, point L2. This is the armhole line. From point L2 we go down 9cm and put a mark for sewing in the sleeve:

Let's move on to building the dart. To do this, we find the position of point R on the segment DD1. DR = NN1. Draw a straight line from point R up and down. On line N1R from point N1 we retreat 2cm down and place point R1.

T. R2 is 10 cm lower from T. R.

RR3 = RR4 = 1.5 cm.

We connect the points R1, R4, R2, R3 and get a dart.

The pattern is ready.

In my opinion, this is the most understandable way to construct a pattern. But it’s worth considering that different body types have their own nuances. So, for example, when creating a pattern for a children's dress, you should exclude the construction of darts in the drawing. And for women of large sizes, it will be necessary to make different increases for the freedom of fit. Another popular technique is to construct a Muller drawing.

Based on the basic pattern of a women's dress, using simple modeling methods you can achieve completely different dress styles.

In this case, you can also manipulate the sleeve of the product. So, for example, from an ordinary sheath dress you can get a fashionable summer dress with one-piece sleeves:

This dress model is very suitable for overweight women, hiding figure flaws:

Using basic pattern making skills, you can sew a light summer dress for a girl.

Another popular method is to construct a Zlachevskaya pattern. Using her technique, when constructing a drawing, all the individual features of the figure are taken into account. This method is considered the most accurate, excluding subsequent adjustment of the product.

For beginners, it will be useful to learn the classic method of constructing a basic dress pattern and set-in sleeve. Moving from simple to complex, in the future you can learn how to model items with raglan sleeves and even lined outerwear.

Sewing any clothing begins with building a base (basic drawing in size). The dress is no exception either. To independently design a practical and well-fitting item, you do not have to be an experienced craftsman. It is enough to understand what the principle of constructing the basis pattern for a dress is, carefully and consistently take measurements and transfer them to a piece of paper. Once you understand the fundamental concepts, creating anything becomes possible.

Pattern construction is essentially transferring the outline of your body onto a two-dimensional drawing that reflects the half pieces of the back and front. The diagram “lays down” on a basic rectangle, inside of which bends and details are drawn. Its height is the length of the future product from the cervical vertebra to the lower horizontal line of the skirt. The width is equal to half the chest circumference, taking into account the size of the allowances (looseness of fit).

It is necessary to make patterns so that the item fits like a glove. But there may be very few of them. Having built the base, you can use it for sewing any things, since it reflects the basic dimensions, features of a particular physique and height. A simple drawing can be modified, each time obtaining a new diagram.

When designing a dress, special attention is paid to the upper part. It has three conventional areas - back, armholes and chest. In each of them you need to model angles and lines. Then, moving to the bottom, create the waist and outline of the hips. The classic pattern for the basis of the dress is a “sheath” pattern that accurately follows the curves. Having learned how to create it, you will understand how to “work” with the lines of the body, neckline, and it will be much easier to design drawings for other models.

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Silhouette and fit increases

Before you make a pattern, you need to choose a silhouette. According to the degree of freedom it can be:

• tightly fitting - the lines completely follow the contours of the body, there is practically no gap between the fabric and the skin;
• adjacent and semi-adjacent - the outlines of the figure are clearly expressed, but the thing does not tighten the body, it rotates;
• straight or free - the silhouette does not follow the curves, the figure is either hidden, or its proportions visually change.

Constructing patterns is impossible without determining the allowance for the freedom of products. They, in turn, depend on the silhouette. The same goes for fabric: for a strong fit, choose elastic materials (then you can do without any extras at all, but it’s better to do them). If the textile does not stretch, then it can be used to build a base, at best, an adjacent silhouette. In it, the allowances do not exceed 3 cm - the gap is evenly distributed between the back, armholes and chest (1 cm each).

Semi-fitting clothing patterns are made, leaving a gap of about 4-5 cm. About a centimeter is left for the back, 1.5 cm for the armholes, and the rest for the chest. The same percentage works when designing a drawing of loose clothing with 6-7 cm increases. For a classic base, use a close-fitting silhouette that is undemanding to the type of fabric. For him, the allowance for fit is on average:

• chest - 50-60 mm (Pg);
• waist - 10-30 mm (Fri);
• hips - 20-25 mm (Pb);
• back - 8 mm (Pshs, in width);
• armholes - 3 mm (Pshpr, in width);
• shoulder - 3 mm (Pshp, in width);
• back-waist distance - 5 mm (Pdst);
• shelf-waist distance - 10 mm (Pdpt).

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Features of neck and shoulder modeling

Before you build a pattern according to real parameters, you should understand the basic concepts so as not to get confused in alphanumeric notations later. At the base there is a basic rectangle: the neck line is located on its narrow side, its end is raised. The shoulder axis is tilted. On the pattern of the base of the dress, it starts from the end of the line along the neckline and extends to the back area.

When measuring your shoulders, you need to leave 1.5-2 centimeters under the dart and determine the slope based on your body type:

• with a sloping shoulder - 3.5 cm;
• at high - 1.5 cm;
• the average value is 2.5 cm.

A common mistake when constructing a basic pattern is that the shoulder axis does not reach the back area. This happens if the measurements taken are inaccurate: you did not take the measurements to the very neck or the middle of the shoulder joint, you hunched your back, or put the tape above your shoulder blades. When sewing clothes with a loose silhouette, this position will not be a mistake. There should be a large padding on the back, and the shoulder will not reach this area.

At chest level there are three basic lines - along the neckline, shoulder plus dart. For the first axis, the depth is equal to ⅓ of the half-circumference of the neck (add a couple of centimeters). Along the front you need to connect the edges of the neckline and the armhole at the top - you will get an outline of the shoulders.

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Features of armhole construction

The bust line is very important for pattern construction. The master focuses on it, building an armhole - a cutout at the armpit that allows you to move your arm freely. The chest level is equal to the size of the armhole, which is measured down from the shoulders. It should be positioned horizontally. For correct construction, measure the distance from the bottom point along the armhole to the top of the conditional square - on both sides of the drawing, connecting the resulting points with a segment.

In the armhole area you need to draw cutouts for the back and front. They should clearly fit your body type so that the dress does not pull in the armpits and the seams do not squeeze your arms. The dimensions of the real thing may be larger than according to the measurements taken, but not smaller, otherwise you simply will not be able to wear it. Along the back, the height of the neckline is always equal to ¼ of the half-circumference of the chest (Pg) plus about 7 cm. The armholes go ⅔ vertically, and in the lower part they bend to the middle level of the basic dress pattern.

At the front, the height of the axillary neckline is equal to ¼ of the half-circumference of the chest plus 5 cm. There are 2 curvatures in the armhole - at the top, at 1/10 Pg, and at the bottom at ⅓ of the height along the chest line. Next, you need to draw the lines of the waist and hips, not forgetting about the darts along the back and front.

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Waist, hips and darts

The basic pattern of a sheath dress should be constructed correctly at the waist. You also need to shape its transition to the hips. Before drawing them, draw the front and back shelves on the right and left sides. They focus on the waist when lining up darts. In adjacent silhouettes, they show how well the item will fit. The widest darts will be at the waist.

The hip line determines how the garment should expand along the hem. Classic models diverge by 1.5 centimeters on the right and left sides. This is enough to not feel discomfort when moving. The base pattern for stretch materials is designed according to the same principle, otherwise the hem will “creep” up when walking and you will have to constantly adjust it. The expansion can be greater - for example, if the “difference” between the chest and hip girth is significant. After decorating the waist darts, you need to smoothly draw a roundness along the bottom with a pattern.

Darts are perhaps the most difficult part of the drawing. In order for the product to fit well in the chest area, you should create a bulge - a conventional cone that follows the outline of the bust. In most models, the chest dart is placed on the side, just below the armpit, so that it is invisible. However, drawing it along the shoulder is more convenient for construction. The width of the element is determined “experimentally” - during fitting.

The waist dart on the back ends at the top at the bust line. On the front - it does not reach it by 4 cm. By the same 4 cm, they both do not reach the thigh. On the back, all the details are located at the same number from the edges of the neck. Their depth can be determined as 6 cm and width as 16 mm. On many models they are absent - for convenience they can be moved to the lock, cutting off excess material at the line of sewing in the fastener.

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Taking measurements

Required Tools

• Pencil with eraser.
• Ruler with tape-centimeter.
• Tailor's patterns.
• Paper - graph paper, tracing paper, Whatman paper.
• Pencil, chalk or disappearing marker.

When designing dress models for beginning craftsmen, it is important not to make mistakes when measuring all the parameters.

Required measurements

• Neck (Ssh) - at the base of the neck.
• Chest - first (Cr1), second (Cr2) and third (Cr3), at the most distant points of the shoulder blades and chest.
• Waist (St) - in the narrowest part of the torso.
• Hips (Sb) - the horizontal line runs along the bulges of the abdomen and buttocks.

You will definitely need measurements for the width of the shoulders (W), chest (W) and back (W). As well as height values ​​- shoulders obliquely on the chest and back (Vpkg and Vpks) and chest (Vg).

Full measurements are taken by calculating the lengths:

• total dress - DI;
• shoulder - Dp, from the base of the neck to the joint on the shoulder;
• back and shelves to the waist - Dts (from the 7th vertebra in the neck to St) and Dtp;
• sleeves - from the shoulder joint to the elbow and hand.

When building a grid, you need to determine the width by:

• chest (Wg) - ¼ girth minus 4 cm;
• armhole (Shp) - ⅛ chest circumference minus 1.5 centimeters;
• back (Shs) - ⅛ girth plus 5.5 cm.

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Constructing a grid and diagram of the back and shoulders

Step-by-step instructions for creating a product begin with constructing the meshes.

1. The first point is A0. From it on the right side the width of the grid is measured - point A1.
2. Along this axis a line is drawn from A0 to the right Шс (а) and to the left - the width along the shelf (а2).
3. The segment a-a2 is Shp.
4. From A0 downwards, the length of the item is measured and a mark H is placed. This will be the bottom level.
5. From the same A0, the chest line (point G) is drawn down, and then the waist line (T).
6. From T down along the same segment, the hip line is measured, ending with point B.
7. To complete the quadrilateral, set aside the height from a1 downwards along the grid (vertex H3).
8. To obtain marks on the H3a1 axis, horizontal lines from G, T and B are laid - these are, respectively, G3, T3 and B3.
9. For points g1 and G4 at chest level G-G3, you need to draw vertical axes from a and from a2.
10. Next, the back is built. From A0 to the left, the center is moved 0.5 centimeters and the mark A0* is placed.
11. A line is drawn from it down to the level of the shoulder blades - it ends at point U.
12. The time axis Y-A0* is drawn.
13. To the left of A0, you need to line up the width of the neck along the back - A0*-A2 - and its depth down from A08 to the Y-A0* axis. The line needs to be drawn out smoothly, so use a template.

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From T along the T-T3 line, you need to postpone the tap at the waist - point T1. The middle seam along the back is lined up with the same bend (1.5 cm) to the right of H (H1). The end point along the shoulder is formed by the radius of the circle, the center of which is A2. The distance is equal to Шп plus the addition to the tuck solution (about 2 centimeters). The second radius is drawn from T1, and its intersection with the first forms mark P1.

Darts on the shoulders and design of shelves

1. From A2 you need to measure several segments with a step identical to the dart solution - mark points I1 and I2.
2. A compass is placed on the “notches” made, radii of about 7 cm are drawn, and the points obtained by crossing them are designated I.
3. The marks I, I1 and I2 are connected.
4. The sides are raised by 2 mm to adjust the seam along the shoulder.
5. The ends of the darts should be connected to its end and neck.
6. Auxiliary points for the armhole are lined up along the segment P1-G1 - these are marks P3 and G2, which are located in the middle of the Shpr.
7. The lines are drawn smoothly, leaving a right angle with the vertex P2.

To build a drawing of a shelf, you need:

1. mark the center of the chest with point G6;
2. arrange the descent Lt with a horizontal line equal to the segment G3-G6;
3. line up the top of the neck along the shelf and measure its depth.

Formation of lateral lines

1. When building side lines, you need to start from chest level - from the center of the armhole (point G4). An axis for the side seam is drawn vertically down from it.
2. Intersecting with Lt, Front and bottom, it forms marks T2, B2 and H2.
3. Having calculated the solution of darts along the waist and side seam, the size of the expansion on the hips is determined using the formula (Sb + Pb) minus B1-B3.
4. The resulting marks are B21 and B22. If the silhouette along the lower outlines is straightened and not narrowed, set aside the same values ​​on the bottom line to place points H21 and H22.
5. The line along the suture side will pass through G4, T21, B22, H22, as well as along G4, T22, B21 and H21.
6. A smooth line is drawn, a waist dart is designed - you need to navigate by the position of the center of the chest on the shelf.
7. From Lt, lower the vertical axis to the hip, T5. T51 and T52 are solution points along it.
8. Draw the relief of the shelf and back to the bottom line - H4 and H5. The bottom along the shelf and back are segments H22-H5-H31 and H1-H4-H21.
9. The schematic drawing is ready. All that remains is to transfer its details onto tracing paper, not forgetting about seam allowances, secure with pins and carefully cut out. After this you can start sewing.

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The good thing about the “case” style is that it’s easy to change - “play” with the expansion of the hem, the shape of the sleeves, the depth and geometry of the neckline. Various fabrics are suitable for it: from thin summer cotton to thick, warming woolen textiles and knitwear. When cutting, you need to take into account the characteristics of the material, but in general the style fits well on anyone. The finished dress will become a universal starting point for further experiments.

By following the above approximate description, you will be able to model your own base to fit your body shape and size. The design needs to be checked, paying special attention to the calculation of darts and their solutions (a separate big topic). If you don’t have enough experience, it’s good to practice on mock-up fabric so as not to spoil the main fabric. After constructing the basic dress, you can add decor to it - a yoke, flounce, piping.

There are separate and detailed articles on the site about how to make the basis of a dress, sleeve, skirt, trousers, shorts and other clothes pattern. An experienced tailor at the studio offers to create a pattern using his own simplified method, specially adapted for beginners. However, for beginners who decide to sew a skirt or trousers (especially a dress) with their own hands, it is important to know not only how to correctly make a pattern and sewing technology, but also many “little things” that are insignificant at first glance.

In this article, an experienced tailor will share some tips with you. You'll learn what aspiring tailors need to know before making a pattern and starting to cut and sew your own clothes.
Please note that the VKontakte group has a lot of useful tips for beginning tailors. Sign up for the group. We constantly post various quick tips and links to useful articles.

Prepare a sketch of the future dress model

Sewing clothes, especially women's dresses, is a creativity that requires not only the ability to make a pattern and sew on a sewing machine, but also the taste and imagination of the designer. You will need to draw a sketch of the future dress model, imagine what finishing elements and details will be on it, choose the color and quality of the fabric, and the silhouette of the dress. And finally, draw it all on a piece of paper. However, you don’t have to be able to draw beautifully to sketch a dress. You can use ready-made design solutions, supplement them or change them slightly.

Do you like indoor or garden flowers? At the Green Gate nursery you can buy rooted cuttings and divisions of various domestic and perennial garden flowers. We have a constantly updated collection of anthuriums and hibiscus. Flowers and plants are sent by mail.

For beginning tailors, the pattern often comes first. They carefully and scrupulously enter their measurements into the calculations when constructing a pattern, trying not to make a mistake even by a millimeter. But, more often than not, the first result is unsuccessful, simply because there is not enough experience. Therefore, do not immediately try to sew clothes from expensive fabric, first learn the basics and gain personal experience. Even a teacher in cutting and sewing courses will not be able to give you the full amount of knowledge, not to mention articles on the Internet. You will have to learn many techniques and subtleties on your own, sometimes at the cost of your own mistakes.

Take, for example, an element such as the silhouette of a dress. Everyone knows that the silhouette can be close-fitting, semi-fitting and free. Beginners need to make three different patterns for the same size. For an experienced tailor, when modeling a dress, one but proven basic pattern is enough and he can make additions and changes to it with chalk directly on the fabric.
On our website there is original material, specially adapted and intended for beginners, on how to make the basis of a straight dress, as well as making changes to the basic pattern for a fitted and loose silhouette.

What tools are needed to make a pattern?

1. Cutting line. This is a special, transparent and wide ruler with convenient markings in inches and centimeters. Inches are used when constructing patterns taken from foreign magazines.
2. Paper tape. It is no coincidence that we placed it in second place. It will definitely come in handy when adjusting the pattern, gluing additional sections of paper, placing folds on the pattern, etc. It is not necessary to buy one with such a device; it is enough to buy ordinary masking tape in a roll, 3 cm wide.
3. This tool is used to transfer your pattern or magazine pattern onto paper. A gear wheel pierces two layers of paper with needles, accurately transferring the contours of the top sheet to the bottom. Using a copy roller you can quickly and accurately make a pattern.
4. An ordinary pencil, preferably soft. There are markings on the pencil shaft. A hard pencil is designed for thick paper, such as Whatman paper. For thin graph paper it is better to use grades M, 2M, TM.
5. You will often have to erase inaccurate or minor pencil lines, so choose a convenient and high-quality eraser.
6. Many people believe that beautiful and comfortable tailor's tape measures are better than a regular measuring tape. In fact, even professionals only use a centimeter in their work. Do not buy a centimeter that is too long, for example 2 meters. A regular centimeter, 150 cm long, is the most convenient size.
7. Tailor's scissors are considered the main tool of a tailor. They should be sharp and comfortable. Every seamstress should have at least three types of scissors in her kit: large ones for fabric; medium - for small projects and small - for cutting threads while sewing on a sewing machine. Do not use tailor's scissors to cut paper. You can buy regular office scissors inexpensively at a stationery store.
Experienced dressmakers use a special cutter to cut fabric. Don't rush to get one. For beginners, scissors are quite enough at first.
8. A rectangular ruler is simply an indispensable tool when creating a pattern, especially if graph paper is not used. This rectangle is also useful when aligning the bottom of a skirt or dress during fitting.
9. A ruler of this shape is a must have in your kit. Using it, you will create smooth lines for the armhole, neckline, etc. on the pattern.
10. And finally, graph paper. With it, you can easily make a pattern with your own hands, and then transfer its parts from the general drawing to separate sheets of thicker paper. It is sold in sheets and rolls. It is most convenient to use paper in a roll, but first you can try to make a pattern on sheets of A3, A2 paper glued together.

If you create a pattern yourself, then you practically won’t need the terms used by designers, except for the basic ones: back, front, lapel, armhole, etc. It’s a different matter when you use ready-made patterns from magazines. There you can often find a lot of unfamiliar words. We have a detailed article on our website that provides detailed descriptions of most terms and pattern details.
See Name of cutting details, cuts, terms

However, you should not put much emphasis on studying them, especially since they are most often explained in the drawing and are intuitively understandable even to an untrained person. But it is imperative to understand what the different symbols on the finished pattern mean.

1. An arrow with the inscription “DN” or “Lobe” means the direction of the grain of the fabric, taking into account which you need to lay out the pattern on the fabric.
2. “Fabric fold” means that this pattern piece needs to be laid out along the fold of the fabric when cutting, for example the back.
3. To ensure that the parts of the product do not move during sewing, it is advisable to divide them into sections and put marks. When sewing, these marks must be aligned and this way you will avoid strong displacement or stretching of the seams. Place short lines on the pattern (for example, waist line, chest line), and mark these marks on the fabric with chalk.
In this way, folds and tucks are marked, and you can even indicate with an arrow the direction of their laying.
4. If you have already sewn clothes with your own hands, then you know that some parts of the clothes need to be “shrinked”, while others, on the contrary, need to be stretched. For example, it is always advisable to cut out the sleeve cap a little larger than the armhole, and to raise the upper section of the sleeve a little. On the other hand, the buttock areas of the trousers (in some cases), on the contrary, need to be stretched with a hot iron with steam, etc.
You should pay attention to the marks on the pattern in the form of wavy lines or dotted lines with an asterisk. They indicate the area that needs to be planted or collected.
5. Professionals use patterns without allowances. But patterns for beginners are given with seam allowances. The contours of the finished pattern are indicated by a solid line, and the stitching line by a dotted line.

Unfortunately, in a short article it is impossible to provide comprehensive information on how to make a pattern with your own hands, especially for those just beginning to sew. To do this, you need to complete a 3-4 month training course, at a minimum. However, it is possible to provide important directions for self-study. Some information can be found on our website, other websites, books and video courses. Here, for example, is how to take measurements.

Any pattern is constructed so that the fabric of the clothing does not fit tightly around the figure, but has a little freedom. Therefore, when constructing, various increases in freedom of fit are used. Their size depends mainly on the size of your clothing and the characteristics of your figure (fullness). Take this into account when creating a pattern.
See Tightness Increases.

Do not blindly trust patterns from various magazines and Internet resources. You should always check them before cutting your fabric. It is impossible to create a perfect pattern that fits any figure. Apparently this is why designers often give large allowances for freedom of fit. And to check you need to learn how to make patterns with your own hands. This is such a vicious circle.

When laying out patterns on fabric, the problem of pattern parts shifting often arises. You can use thin and sharp tailor's pins and pin the paper parts to the fabric. But, not necessarily. But you need to pin paired pieces of fabric with pins. This will allow you to avoid them shifting when cutting.

Don't repeat these mistakes!

1. You should not trail when sewing. Perform the work consistently and accurately, sweeping away difficult areas by hand. After completing the sewing of a part or a complex operation (stitching a side seam, etc.), you need to perform a wet-heat treatment, carefully ironing or ironing the seams. See How to iron clothes properly.
You should especially not rush when completing the work. It's better to wait until the next day to hem the bottom of your dress or skirt than to do it late at night.
2. Experienced seamstresses know that the most important step in sewing is fitting. And the more of them you make, the better the work will be done, the more accurately the clothes will fit your figure. Be sure to do fittings when sewing any clothes. Experts even have a special term for this: first fitting and second fitting.
3. We have already said above that you should not trust patterns from magazines too much. They were made by experienced specialists, but even they cannot take into account all the deviations from the standard characteristics of typical figures.
4. Don’t think that making a pattern is something beyond your capabilities. In fact, everything is very simple. You just need to spend time and figure out what’s new to you.
5. Don't be afraid to make a mistake, but save your money. First make a skirt pattern from inexpensive fabric. Then you can try to sew shorts and trousers. Well, then make a pattern and a dress, just sew it from inexpensive, simple fabric.
6. Not all fabrics, but many, require special wet-heat treatment before sewing. Fabrics containing cotton, wool, and sometimes synthetic fibers may shrink after washing. Consider this before cutting your fabric.
7. Since the sewing machine becomes your main assistant, keep it in order. A faulty or unconfigured machine can ruin not only your mood, but also the thing for which you worked so hard to make a pattern and spent not only time, but also money.

Skirt pattern - pencil. Very simple construction, accessible for beginners. The video is in English, but you can choose captions in any other language. If you like to sew, be sure to subscribe to this video channel. You will learn a lot of useful things. The channel was created by professional tailors.