How to cut vinyl leather quickly and easily. It's easy and fun to work with artificial leather! How to sew leather on a sewing machine
Hello, friends!
Things made of genuine leather are always in trend.
But, without professional knowledge and skills, high-quality tailoring of leather goods is not available to every tailor. Therefore, alternative materials are a great help for beginners and pros.
Sew from the popular now eco-leather or other substitutes natural raw materials are more accessible and easier. Artificial leather is easily cut, sewn, glued, has the same width as a regular fabric and is unpretentious in maintenance.
Meanwhile, you need to know some of the nuances of tailoring. Otherwise, it is possible already at the cutting stage.
Let's look for the answer to the questions: how to sew eco-leather and leatherette.
I will not inflame your attention with an overview of the types of artificial leather. This is an extensive topic for a separate article. so as not to miss the blog updates.
Purpose of publication: consider the features of eco-leather and the methods of processing used when sewing things from artificial leather.
Important! Thinking about publishing, I realized that in one article I cannot tell everything I know.
Today consider the main features of the materials and recommendations for working with them.
- Recommendations for quality tailoring ...
- A beautiful and practical gift idea. ...
In order to work with leather, you need not only a sewing machine for sewing leather, but also special needles, threads, glue, adhesives. You need to use many tools designed specifically for working with genuine leather.
An original and simple way to repair a hole or tear in a leather jacket or other clothing.
The technology of sewing leather on a sewing machine differs from sewing fabrics. And first of all, because sewing leather requires a special foot and special sewing needles. The main technological feature of joining leather parts is that the allowances of the stitched seams are not ironed out with an iron, but glued.
Many people who are fond of tailoring often have to work with leather. Handmade bags, finishing elements of clothing details, jewelry, various crafts and even leather paintings look very original and stylish.
There are many books on teaching the technique of sewing leather goods, lessons and master classes. We offer only a few basic simple recommendations on the technology of sewing leather on a sewing machine with your own hands.
In this video you will see how easy it is to sew leather on a 22 class or Podolsk type sewing machine if you install a Teflon foot on it. If you are fond of tailoring, subscribe to my channel.
The thickness of the leather depends on the type of raw material used for the production of leather and the technology of leather processing. For each product it is necessary to select a certain type of leather. For example, leather for sewing gloves (kid leather) is suitable for costume jewelry. It is soft, elastic and capable of conveying the finest nuance of small details of products.
It is better to sew bags from harder leather, coarser manufacture. If soft leather is used for sewing the bag, then duplicating pads made of dense material must be used to shape the bag.
If you are going to sew a fur vest with leather inserts and trimmings, then use dense but soft leather. Tough, coarse leather will "bulge", and too thin can tear at the joints.
2. How to sew leather on a sewing machine
Working with leather quite a difficult task, since you need to know many technological features. Be able to use a variety of tools and devices. For example, when cutting out paired parts, it must be borne in mind that the skin stretches more in the transverse direction than in the longitudinal direction, therefore it is advisable to cut the parts of the product in one direction.
It is impossible to split the skin with pins, sweeping with threads is also not recommended. Needle punctures will leave traces that cannot be removed.
Soft, thin leather can be sewn on the sewing machine with a normal # 80 or # 90 needle (for fabrics).
For sewing thicker and coarser leather, special sewing needles are used with a point in the form of a two-sided or four-sided blade. This shape of the needle blade makes it easier to pierce rough leather, leaves a less noticeable mark and prevents skipped stitches or thread breaks.
The length of the stitch on the sewing machine must be set almost to the maximum, since in places where the needle is often punctured, the skin can break.
3. Not every sewing machine can sew leather.
To replace a zipper in a leather jacket, it is imperative to have an industrial sewing machine capable of sewing leather. Otherwise, you can break not only the needle, but the machine itself.
Before sewing leather on the sewing machine, be sure to read its instructions. If it does not indicate that you can sew leather on it, then do not even try. But you shouldn't despair, remember about your grandmother. She probably has an old sewing machine Podolsk or Singer with a foot or hand drive. This machine will definitely not break down and will confidently sew leather. At least she won't feel so sorry for her. Of course, the replacement of the lightning will not be done very well, one might say in a handicraft way. But if you try hard, then the new zipper in the jacket will look quite decent.
4. You need to cut the leather with a special boot knife
In this video you will see the technology of sewing zippers into leather clothing. If you are fond of tailoring leather goods, subscribe to our channel and you will learn a lot of useful tips.
After finishing working with leather, the appearance of the product can be refreshed. Marking lines left during operation can be removed with soap and water or ammonia. To restore the leather surface to its former shine, then wipe this area with a cloth moistened with petroleum jelly or glycerin.
Heavily soiled areas on the skin can be washed with warm unboiled milk, wiped with whipped egg white or half an onion.
White skin is cleaned with a mixture of milk and whipped egg white.
Patent leather should be wiped with a cloth moistened with glycerin, or cleaned with a swab dipped in milk.
Suede can be cleaned with sawdust soaked in gasoline (the remaining sawdust is cleaned off with a brush), or ink eraser, as well as a fine-grained abrasive cloth.
Household grease stains are removed with gasoline or talc and oxalic acid solution.
9. Dyeing clothes made of genuine leather
The technology for painting leather with an aerosol can is quite simple. Aerosolized leather paint is sprayed while holding the can at a distance of about 20 cm from the area of \u200b\u200bthe leather product. In order for the paint layer to lay down evenly, without drips, do not hold the balloon for too long in one area. Move it smoothly and constantly along the painted surface.
After a ten minute break, the next coat of paint is applied. This operation continues until the surface of the skin acquires a uniform color over the entire area. However, it should be borne in mind that this method of painting the leather is intended only for partial "refreshing" its surface. It is not recommended to use aerosol paint for leather for "cardinal" repainting of leather clothes.
Sometimes natural leather needs to be sewn on a furrier. In this video you will see how the 10B furrier machine works.
When installing accessories on leather clothes, difficulties always arise. Buttons and blocks are bent, buttons do not hold, etc. To help you correctly install buttons, blocks on clothes with our own hands, we have prepared an article with the recommendations of the master.
How to make a belt with your own hands. How to make a hole in a belt, fasten a buckle and what tools are needed to work with leather.
Working with leather is always difficult, even if you have the right sewing machine and tools. In order to make it easier to perform some operations when working with leather, here are some professional tricks.
Not every craftsman will be able to replace the zipper in a leather jacket even in an atelier. In addition to a special machine for sewing leather, you need to know the technology of working with leather, have special tools and devices. But, if the jacket costs less than the cost of repairing it, then you can try to replace the zipper yourself. For some tips on how to sew leather properly, see this article.
Sewing leather and sewing fur is a special kind of sewing work. If for working with leather a type 22 class industrial grinder is used, then grind machines are not used for working with fur. For this there is a special furrier machine.
Working with genuine leather involves the use of special needles, a foot with a roller instead of a sole and, of course, a special sewing machine capable of making high-quality stitches without gaps and thread breaks. To properly sew leather with your own hands, you also need to know what kind of thread is used for sewing leather.
Many special tools are used to work with leather. This is not only a boot knife, but also a special hammer for softening seams, a punch for installing accessories, a special awl for sewing leather by hand, etc.
Adhesive fabrics are needed to stiffen certain parts and areas of clothing. However, cool fabrics and materials are also used when working with genuine leather. The glue-taped leather jacket hem will not stretch when the zipper is attached. You can also put an adhesive cloth in the cuff, collar.
Seamstresses often need to work with leather, both natural and artificial. This can be sewing leather jackets and jackets, accessories. Even replacing a zipper or making simple leather repairs requires some skill in working with this material.
To master them, you need to choose the right thread for sewing leather and tools that make it easier to work with this difficult material.
We sew leather - features of work
The secrets of working with leather lie in the fact that this material is of different thickness and texture, is able to stretch when sewing, therefore it requires special threads and tools. Small accessories such as purses or belts are sewn by hand. To do this, take nylon threads for leather. But they are not suitable for stitching leather on a sewing machine, because they will tear the material. You can't do without a machine when sewing car covers or hauling furniture. They sew on it with twisted braided threads.
Having decided to sew a thing from leather, you need to make a pattern and go to the store with it to buy material. Usually leather is sold in pieces of different sizes and shapes, with a pattern it is easier to find the right format. Before starting work, the leather is laid out on the table and the places with defects are chalked around in order to try to get around them when cutting.
Important! When cutting paired parts, they need to be laid out mirrored, since the leather stretches differently in the longitudinal and transverse directions
Before cutting out genuine leather, you must first cut and assemble a test piece from fabric, if necessary, make adjustments to the paper pattern and only then transfer it to the skin. The contours are marked with a special pen with a soft rod or pencil. At the same time, mark the seam and hem allowances, preferably of the same width, so that it is easier to grind.
When working with leather, you will have to forget about basting with a needle and pricking with pins, since each puncture leaves a mark and it cannot be masked later. You can pre-connect the parts with paper clips, adhesive tape or a special Gutermann glue stick. Its advantage over adhesive tape is that when sewing, the sticky substance of a pencil does not clog into the eye of the needle and does not spoil the threads.
Details are connected with a stitch or seam seam. The allowances are not ironed, as on fabrics, but are carefully straightened and glued with rubber or any other glue, which, after drying, remains elastic. A leather item is often decorated with an embroidered pattern. Simple patterns are made by hand, complex ornaments are more convenient to embroider on a machine.
Leather tools
The main tool that you need when sewing leather is a needle. For working with leather materials, special ones should be used: long, perfectly polished and thin. Their tip does not look like a sharp point, but looks like a triangular blade. When sewing, it cuts through the skin and gently stretches it, preventing breaks when passing the thread. The needles differ in different angles of entry into the material. Manufacturers on their websites demonstrate photos and videos of leather stitches that are obtained when sewing with different needles.
Important! When working with dyed eco-leather, a special needle, by cutting through the material, prevents peeling off pieces of paint around the hole
The thickness of the needle must correspond to the thread number and the density of the material in order to obtain a quality stitch.
When cutting leather, you will need a plastic or glass board, on which it is easy to steer with any cutting object, cutting out parts. The wooden one is inconvenient because the edge of a knife cuts into it. To cut out leather parts, take a boot knife or blade with a holder. When sewing by hand, you will need an awl to poke through the thread holes and thimble. Many craftsmen use a small rubber hammer, which is convenient for straightening the stitched seam, walking along the glued allowances to secure them.
If the leather product is to be sewn on a machine, you will need a special foot. Its necessity is due to the fact that the bottom conveyor can hardly cope with the advancement of this dense material. Because of this, the line deteriorates. Roller foot is designed to facilitate the advancement of leather and fur. The same purpose is served by the Teflon foot, which easily glides over the material due to its smoothness and does not hinder its pulling when stitching. On the forums of specialists working with leather, craftsmen approve of the walking foot. It promotes material well and enhances the capabilities of a household machine to the level of an industrial device.
What thread to sew leather
When choosing threads for working with leather, one should focus on the density of the material and the thickness of the needle. The thinner and longer it is, the lower the number of threads used. Usually these are needles No. 90 and 100, which are suitable for eco-leather, loose leatherette and thin natural leather. The optimal thickness of threads for such leather is considered number 35 or 45. They are strong and not too thick, do not require a special reconfiguration of the machine. Sometimes thread # 20 is used to topstitch the outer details of bags or to make a decorative protruding seam on accessories. It will require a thicker needle and will have to adjust the tension, set the appropriate stitch length.
In any case, for leather sewing threads, strength and elasticity are important. Old Soviet-style cotton threads, even thick ones, are not suitable for work. They tear quickly with a slight tension of the stitched parts, rot and deteriorate. Nylon sewing threads are suitable for hand-sewn leather, but they are not for machine sewing because they tear the material.
The optimal choice of thread for sewing leather on a machine is reinforced. They have a polyester core tightly braided with cotton, linen or rayon fibers. This thread is very strong and elastic. The stitch is delicate and strong, the seam does not stick together. The threads are convenient for working with fur and leather materials, since they do not fray and do not stretch, they do not become electrified due to special processing. They do not wear out and do not shrink when washing, they are resistant to paints and alkalis from household chemicals.
For embroidery on leather, it is better to choose nylon threads - if the pattern is made by machine and cotton floss - embroider the pattern by hand. To make the thread lay flat, the elastic skin is compacted with duplicate.
Types and manufacturers
To correctly determine what thread the leather is sewn, you need to understand the types of polyester threads.
Reinforced are of several classes, which differ in the composition of the braid of the polyester core. The thread is formed by simultaneously pulling the inner lavsan (polyester) rod and braiding it with protective cotton, viscose or lavsan fibers.
For working with leather, they take threads with cotton (LH) or lavsan (LL) braid. They have a round cross-section, are very strong and give a neat, strong seam. With them, shrinkage of the product along the stitched seam is excluded, their color is resistant to sunlight, water or chemical detergents.
COATS epic threads, offered by the Russian company PAZH (LLC Pazha), are used for sewing leather and fur. In them, the polyester core is braided with staple fibers, thanks to which they are durable and can be used on modern high-speed sewing devices.
What thread to sew leather on a sewing machine is shown in the table below.
A special type of polyester yarn is filament. Their difference from reinforced ones is that such threads are not twisted from short fibers, but are made using the technology of continuous polymerization during the stretching process. An example of such a thread is Sinton. They are durable, they are used on industrial devices when sewing furniture and car covers, shoes, suitcases, bags.
Ritza Tiger waxed braided threads from Danish manufacturer Julius Koch are made of polyester and differ from other flat section leather sewing threads. The seam of them looks delicate, does not wrinkle. The thread wax does not stick to your hands or clog the eye of the needle.
Consultants in specialized sewing shops in the city of Moscow will help you to choose the right threads in terms of thickness and structure.
How to choose
When choosing, you must pay attention that the marking may indicate the width of the thread in millimeters. If you are planning to sew a purse, watch straps and other small accessories, choose a thread 0.4 mm wide. She looks harmonious and makes things light. When sewing belts or bags, it is more convenient to take threads of medium width - about 0.5 mm. For sewing backpacks or thick leather shoes, you need a thread of 0.7-1.0 mm. The seam looks smoother and neater if the thread has a dense double twist.
For handmade leather crafts, craftsmen often opt for flaxened linen thread No. 10. They are made of triple-twisted combed linen yarn. This thread is very strong and has a pleasant matte color.
Sewing leather requires the correct choice of thread color. They can be either in the tone of the product or in contrast with it. Handmade will be emphasized by a seam made of light thread on dark leather, a combination of the color of the outer seam on the bag with a shade of lining.
For working with artificial leather, the optimal choice is threads # 40. This type of leather is very soft, and the stitches made of thin threads look good on it. For topstitching handles, you can use # 20 to make the seam stronger and more expressive.
Both cotton and synthetic threads are used for embroidery on leather. The choice depends on how the pattern will be embroidered - by hand or using a machine.
How to sew leather goods correctly, see the video below.
How to sew from genuine leather - we will try to answer this question in detail in this master class. There are several simple rules for working with genuine leather.
We will tell and show in detailed photos how to sew a basic seam on a sewing machine, process allowances and fasten threads, as well as how to sew a simple seam by hand.
How to sew from genuine leather: the necessary tools and equipment
How to sew from genuine leather with your own hands? In addition to the material itself, you will need a number of mandatory tools.For cutting and working with seam allowances, you should purchase a knife, hammer and glue. The basic version for beginners can easily be bought in a building supermarket, and a more professional tool is presented in stores of sewing accessories or accessories for sewing shoes.
Knife should be sharp and comfortable.
Hammer you should choose a small one, with a wooden or rubber head, it is designed for tapping allowances.
There is a professional glue for those who work with leather goods, it is often sold in large packages and it makes no sense to buy it for one or two projects. Choose a clear, waterproof polyurethane adhesive. Make sure leather is on the list of materials for which it is intended.
For pre-fixing some parts, you can use double sided tape... There is a special tape for leather in the hardware department, but it is quite expensive. You can use regular office double-sided tape, but only where the machine stitch will later be laid.
It is also desirable to have rubber mat, on which it is convenient to cut the skin. Also useful scissors and small pliers.
How to sew from genuine leather on a sewing machine? Ideally, you should have a machine for working with heavy fabrics and industrial leather. However, you can sew simple models made of medium-density genuine leather on a regular machine.
You will need for this special plastic foot and machine needles for leatherwhich have a special spatula-shaped tip. You also need to purchase threads for leather, durable and slippery. The combination of these three components will allow you to sew natural leather on a household sewing machine.
Let's say a few words about buying material. sold in different sizes of skins, which are measured in dm2. The price is indicated for 1 dm2 and then the total cost of a particular skin is calculated. Very often there are various defects on natural leather: scratches, holes, defects in color and texture. In order to buy the right amount of material, take all the necessary patterns to the store and lay them on the skin, avoiding problem areas.
So let's find out how to sew from genuine leather!
Cutting basics
Look closely at the entire piece of leather in good daylight from different angles. With a small number of defects, mark them on the seamy side, if there are many problem areas - mark and lay out the pattern on the front side.
Cut out the main parts as close to the center of the skin as possible. The edges of genuine leather are thinner and may stretch slightly. They can be used for small decorative details: valves, belt loops, cuffs, etc.
If you sew from natural suede, please note that the suede has a pronounced direction of the pile and details cut in different directions will differ from each other.
If thin skin is wrinkled, you can try to iron it with an iron from the wrong side through a slightly damp cloth. Be sure to try it on the little unnecessary piece first!
Simple seam and seam allowance
Remember that, unlike fabric, all needle or pin marks on natural leather remain forever!
Fold right sides in and line up the edges. For additional fixation, you can use stationery clamps or clothespins. Set the stitch length to 3.5-4 mm. Sew to the desired length. Leave the ends of the threads at least 3 cm long on both sides.
Pull the threads to one side and tie a double knot at the beginning and end of the seam.
Apply adhesive to both allowances, including knots.
Expand allowances and press against the base. Tap each allowance and seam with a hammer.
Pull the threads to the wrong side and tie a double knot. Put glue on the knot and cut off the thread tails.
How to thread the ends of the threads
When working with genuine leather, it is often necessary to fix the threads in a place where both the front and back sides are in the public domain.
Thread both threads through a regular thin needle and stick it into the hole in the stitch next to the knot. Bring the needle out after 2-3 stitches.
Use pliers and a thimble to pull out the needle.
Pull firmly on the ends of the threads so that the knot enters the inside of the stitching, into the hole of the stitch.
Cut off excess threads with scissors.
Hand seam
Sometimes the bobbin thread runs out during sewing, but the machine still has time to sew a few stitches. It happens that the machine cannot cope with the thickness of the leather part and only a series of punctures can be made with a needle. In all such cases, you will need to manually sew the seam over the finished punctures.
Insert the bobbin thread into the needle. Insert the needle into the nearest free hole.
Bring the needle to the right side and stick it back in the same hole, making a loop around the top thread.
Withdraw the needle and pull on both threads at the same time, tightening the stitch evenly. Continue to the end of the seam.
A wide variety of imitation leather is available in modern stores. With all the advantages of this material - ease of care and sewing, beautiful appearance, very similar to natural leather - it continues to attract lovers of needlework with its relatively low price.
However, in order for artificial leather products to please the eye, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of sewing this material. There are not very many of them - much less than when it comes to real skin. And yet, knowing these rules will greatly facilitate the work.
There are only three problems:
- The leather sticks to the foot, slowing down the sewing machine. The machine seems to be "marking time" in one place.
- Punctures from a sewing needle are clearly visible on the surface of the material.
- The leather often breaks under the stitches.
According to these characteristics, you can give some tips for working with artificial leather.
At the stage of cutting out, trying on and preliminary basting, it should be remembered that it is strictly forbidden to use pins and a hand needle, since punctures in this case cannot be avoided. Instead, you can, for example, put a load on the pattern, which should be circled on the fabric.
It is advisable to cut out the cut details not with scissors, but with a special circular knife. At the same time, you need to put a flat plate or glass down, which you will not mind cutting. If you need a straight cut, you can use a plastic ruler.
For sewing machine you need to purchase a special foot made of teflon or equipped with rollers. This contributes to the fact that the artificial leather does not slow down, moving freely. If such a foot could not be found, then you can put a strip of waxed paper on top of the leather during sewing - this will facilitate the movement of the ordinary foot. When the stitching is in place, you need to gently tear off the paper along the sides of the seam and then remove any residue.
Another way is to simply lubricate the skin with oil (machine or vegetable oil).
The sharpest needles should be chosen as this will make the puncture less noticeable. For example, jeans needles work. There are, of course, special needles for sewing genuine leather, but they are no longer very suitable for artificial leather. It should also be remembered that leatherette dulls them much faster than other fabrics, so the needle should be changed as often as possible.
The stitches should be fairly long. If the stitch is short, the thread is too tight and may damage the fabric. This is why skin breaks can often be observed between needle punctures. To avoid this, you can use a zigzag stitch instead of a simple straight stitch.
When sewing, it is convenient to use small hairpins or even invisible hairpins to pre-join parts. In this way, you can align the edges of the parts to be sewn, and when the foot approaches the clamping point, you just need to remove the invisibility.
To prevent the stitching from wobbling and looking neat, it is best not to set too fast a stroke. The slower you are sew, the better the result will be.
Especially for the site Needlework lessons sabbinochka.