Weaving with beads - history, techniques, patterns. Orlova Evgeniya Valerievna History of the origin and development of beading

Beads have always attracted people's attention, probably since glass appeared. When did it appear? There are no reliable facts about where it was first obtained. Some agree with the legend that the discoverers of glass were Phoenician merchants. According to legend, one day merchants landed on the shore somewhere in Syria. And when they lit a fire to cook their food, they took large stones from the cargo of the ship - they wanted to use them to stand the pots. One way or another, pieces of saltpeter, which turned out to be these stones, combined with sand and melted under the influence of high temperature. A trickle of liquid glass flowed. Or maybe it was different? Maybe Ancient Egypt was the birthplace of glass? It was there that the first glass beads were found in tombs. They were colorful. Even then, the Egyptians learned to make blue, green and purple glass by adding cobalt, copper or manganese. Both men and women loved these decorations.

History of the origin of beads
The name - beads - comes from the Arabic word “busra” or “beads”, i.e. fake The Romans, having conquered Egypt, spread glass and bead production to the Roman Empire and then to Byzantium. After the conquest of Byzantium by the Turks, many glassmakers moved to Venice. Production settled here for many years. became the main center and supplier of beads in Europe. Glass production was moved to the island of Murano not only to avoid fires, but also to preserve the secret of glass making -. Glaziers were forbidden to travel abroad under pain of death. Venice decorated the whole world with its beads - handbags, cases, boxes, pillows, clothes and even braids for dishes were also made of beads. In the 18th century, competitors appeared - Bohemia (Northern Bohemia). They had their own technology for making glass. Beaded clothing decoration was so popular that it became a sign of wealth. In the language of beading one could learn a lot about the owner - from what area, what family, whether he was noble, whether he was married. But especially in the 19th century, exquisite toilets appeared in France - the decoration included beads and glass beads.

History of the origin of beads in Russia
What do we have in Russia? Glass beads have long been known here. In the Scythian-Sarmatian era, beads were already used as decoration. But here pearls, silver and various metal jewelry were more valued. Interest in beads appeared in the 17th century. In 1676, the first Venetian glassmakers arrived in Moscow, but the business they built lasted 30 years. And in 1724, another attempt was made in Russia to create glass making, and in particular, bead making, but again not for long. The interest of Russian fashionistas gradually gained momentum. And finally, in 1754, a factory was opened for the production of beads, bugles, and glass for mosaics. M.V. made special efforts. Lomonosov, although beads continued to be imported from Europe for a long time. Beadwork appeared in Russia. Women of all classes tried their hand at bead embroidery. Unique items made by the hands of serf women appeared. Amazing embroideries made from the finest beads decorated not only clothes, but also other things. According to the recollections of contemporaries, Count Taranovsky had furniture, “all the seats were covered with amazing embroidery. Flowers, birds and fruits are embroidered on a white background...” Embroidered paintings, panels appeared, icon frames and icons were embroidered with beads, and beaded rosaries appeared. Until the 20s of the 20th century, beaded jewelry delighted and enchanted. Fashionistas especially loved dresses with beaded fringe, which created a shimmering effect during jazz dances. Everything stopped instantly - World War II...

But at the end of the twentieth century, the time for the revival of beadwork came again. Talented masters carefully preserved their art. And now this type of needlework again pleases us with its uniqueness and grace. Now beadwork is in demand again. Beads will add charm and brightness to your clothes. Products made from beads shine on catwalks, in boutiques; beads decorate jewelry and clothing, wallets, handbags, collars, belts and other accessories. Many designers use the beauty of beads in all the variety of their shine and color. You can make many beautiful things yourself, it all depends on experience, skill, desire and patience. Precisely patience, because any women's needlework requires patience.

The history of beading goes back thousands of years. This is one of the most exciting types of needlework. Earrings, necklaces, chokers, beaded bracelets, made by yourself, are original, unique jewelry that reflects the character and temperament of the owner. Nothing emphasizes individuality more than hand-made accessories.

Beads

The material is used to make accessories and jewelry. Bead embroidery has been widely popular for centuries. Types of decorative material:

• brocade;
• pouring;
• opaque;
• metal;
• Klinsky;
• marble;
• fibrous;
• bugles;
• "chameleon".

There are other classifications. For example, Czech. The history of beadwork begins in Egypt - the birthplace of glassmaking, without which this type of needlework would not have become so widespread.

Antiquity

On the territory of modern Egypt in the 20th century, archaeologists discovered faience jewelry. A variety of accessories and household items were found here, made using a technology reminiscent of modern beadwork. The history of glassmaking goes back about six thousand years. The material from which today handicrafts around the world create bracelets, earrings and necklaces is also approximately the same age.

The first machine for making beads appeared in the middle of the 19th century. Decorative elements immediately dropped in price. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the ladies' toilet was decorated with handmade glass beads - round transparent elements cut with a vertical disk. Today, bead making uses a die-cutting press that resembles a guillotine.

In Ancient Egypt, a material vaguely reminiscent of glass beads was called “busra”. Translated into Russian - “fake pearls”. In ancient times, bead bracelets were made using very complex technology. It’s unlikely that today’s needlewomen have enough patience to process each bead. This kind of work is akin to jewelry. In Ancient Egypt, beads were simple and colorless. The craftsmen had to work hard to give their products shine and luxury.

Middle Ages

Researchers associate the emergence of beadwork with ancient Egyptian culture. But outside the country of the pharaohs, there were also craftsmen who were capable of turning small glass parts into amazingly beautiful accessories, dishes and paintings. Beading technology was also known to the Romans. In the Middle Ages, this type of art developed in Italy, Spain, and France.

In the 13th century, Venice became the capital of beadwork. The best glassmakers lived in the most romantic and mysterious European city, which at that time was a republic. The Czech Republic took the baton. “Bohemian glass” is an expression that every person has heard at least once in their life.

Crystal, glass, colored beads, and bugles were produced in the Czech Republic. Until the beginning of the 18th century, Bohemian craftsmen jealously guarded the secrets of the art of making decorative materials. By the middle of the 19th century, their secrecy ceased to intrigue foreign colleagues: special equipment was invented, and this event opened a new page in the history of beading.

Modernity

The best bead manufacturing companies today are located in Japan. Modern technology is based on mixing sand, soda ash, and limestone. Depending on the proportions and the dye used, one or another type of material is obtained. Metal is used for painting.

In Russia

The first glassmakers appeared in the early Middle Ages. Jewelry and beadwork gained popularity in the 16th century. Peter I invited famous German and Dutch glassmakers to Russia. He actively sent his own artisans abroad for training.

Lomonosov, being a meticulous and passionate person, founded a laboratory in which there were several furnaces for creating glass products. The material was used to make glass beads used in decorative and applied arts. However, the history of beadwork in Rus' began long before the birth of Lomonosov.

Basics

The simplest beadwork lessons - this is where you should start learning the art of creating designer jewelry and souvenirs. Needlewomen use various techniques. The usual stringing of beads on a thread is the simplest technique. It consists of alternating beads in a certain order. By performing simple actions, you can achieve an original pattern.

Experienced craftswomen recommend mastering the “cross stitch” technique, also known under the term “monastic weaving,” at the beginning of their creative journey. It is also easy to weave a zigzag chain. But volumetric beading requires special preparation. In addition, this technology is an oriental type of needlework, and finding instructions in Russian a few years ago was not so easy.

The simplest beading technique is threading. It’s not hard to guess what it is. The beads are strung on the thread one by one; no complex manipulations are performed. This method is used by children to make simple bracelets. Other techniques: longitudinal, transverse, angular, circular lowering.

Mosaic lowering

This technique also has another name - peyote. The beads are arranged offset relative to each other. This creates the effect of a mosaic image. Peyote is a tight weave type. To perform proper mosaic weaving, it is very important to choose the right material. The beads will fit tightly to each other, and therefore should be the same size.

Another weaving method is cylindrical, which allows you to create a perfectly flat and relatively smooth beaded surface.

Making three-dimensional figures from beads

A less common type of beading. The point is not that it is not popular among needlewomen. Today, for many, this type of needlework has turned from a hobby into an additional or even the main source of income. The technique of volumetric beading is quite complex. And they don’t buy souvenirs made in this way as actively as, for example, bracelets and earrings, which an experienced craftswoman can spend only a few hours making.

Recently, many books on beadwork and other types of needlework have been published. Reviews of such publications are usually positive. Thus, beginners and experienced needlewomen claim that “Magic Beaded Figures and Animals” contains detailed instructions, with the help of which learning the technique is not at all difficult.

To make the figures, brass wire with a diameter of 0.3 mm is used. It holds its shape perfectly, much better than nylon thread. You will also need a viscose cord for additional elements. What else will be useful? Nail scissors and a small screwdriver.

All animal figures are made according to the same principle. Rows of beads are laid from top to bottom so that a plastic body is obtained. Then the wire is passed along the second row, its 2nd end - through the second row from the opposite end of the row. The ends of the wire should be pulled tightly. The third row is strung in the same way as the second. Otherwise, if you follow the diagram, you can quickly learn how to create animal figurines from beads. Flowers made using this technology also look great.

Materials and tools

Beads of different colors, sizes and shapes can be purchased at any craft store. When purchasing, you should make sure that the material is suitable for volumetric beading. For this technique, just like for mosaics, you will need beads of the same size. It is advisable to choose several colors.

Beading requires patience. However, like any other type of creativity. You should start not with creating three-dimensional figures, but with making products according to the simplest patterns. For example, beads or bracelets. Knot weaving is all you need to learn to create simple jewelry. The principle is to tie a knot after each bead.

The production uses machines to create bead embroidery. But manual work brings pleasure. This is a unique creative process, the result of which is an absolutely unique product. Even if it is made according to a pattern from a book on beading. It is worth saying that many craftswomen prefer to create their own, original designs. However, the ability to improvise comes with experience.

Decor element

The ability to handle beads will be useful for women who like to knit or sew. A small handmade accessory can perfectly complement the item. Beading is worth learning. This is not only a separate type of needlework, but also a technique for decorating clothes.

Beading- one of the most popular types of needlework, an ancient and fairly widespread type of folk art. It developed in accordance with fashion trends, the creation of the beads themselves and progress in society. The development of new technologies was immediately reflected in the beads: new shapes, colors, new finishes, etc. appeared.

Beads- These are small beads made of glass or other materials, drilled through, from which weave necklaces, bracelets and other jewelry.

The history of beads goes back to the distant past. The material, magnificent in its decorative qualities, has attracted the attention of craftsmen since time immemorial. The art of creating jewelry appeared almost at the same time as people appeared. Even when there were no beads as such, people put strings of beads made from beautiful stones or the fangs of killed animals around their necks. Beads have been relevant since the time of the first civilizations and were used by our ancestors as decorations, as well as to protect themselves from evil spirits. In ancient excavations of many peoples who inhabited our planet, processed stones with drilled holes were discovered.

Natural materials such as seeds, pods, nuts, shells, claws and bones of various animals were used as decorations. It was believed that wearing animal bones either protected the wearer from attack by that animal, or gave a person the spirit of the animal, making him courageous and strong. Some of our ancestors made beads from clay, painted them and fired them. With the development of crafts, metal beads begin to appear. Beads were used to create jewelry, talismans, served as bargaining chips and were a symbol of wealth and power.

Through jewelry, people expressed their understanding of the world. This was especially common among the Native Americans. The Indians decorated their houses with beads, wove beaded ribbons into their hair, and embroidered their costumes. Everything was decorated with beads: headbands, ritual belts, lullabies for children, snuff boxes. In North America, beads made from feathers and shells are found. The Indians made beads for their jewelry from various materials - coral, silver, turquoise, etc. were used. The Mayans and Olmecs used jade. Researchers also found beads made of rock crystal and gold. In Ancient Egypt, crystals were used as a material.

Ancient Egypt is considered the birthplace of beads. The appearance of beads is inextricably linked with the advent of glass manufacturing technology. The ancient Egyptians learned to make glass about 3,000 years ago, and soon large beads made of opaque glass appeared. Glass beads decorated the clothes of ancient Egyptian pharaohs. The Egyptians made necklaces from beads and embroidered dresses with them. The history of the development of beadwork is inextricably linked with the history of human development. At first, beads were used mainly for embroidery or simple stringing, but later new options for their use began to develop. After the invention of net threading, independent bead products began to be made. Soon patterns and patterns appeared, beadwork began to develop and gain momentum. The Egyptians combined beads with precious and semi-precious stones, precious metals, etc. Beads quickly turned out to be a favorite material for making jewelry, which began to be sold and exported to different countries.

Following Egypt, beads appeared in Syria. The secrets of these peoples were adopted by the Roman Empire. Gradually, beadwork - patterns and original products - began to cover the whole world. In China, a counting device was invented in which beads slide along wires placed in a wooden frame. This is how the abacus was created. The Romans traded beads throughout their empire. The ancient Celts and Vikings also knew beadwork, had patterns and patterns, made beads and bracelets, and also decorated clothes. Beads were known in the Ancient world. For some peoples it served as a bargaining chip.

The nomadic tribes of the Sarmatians and Scythians, several centuries before our era, wore clothes and shoes trimmed with beads. Small glass balls decorated the collars, sleeve edges and breasts of shirts, as well as trousers, belts and hats.

Among the main centers of glassmaking, Venice stands out, which, after the collapse of the Roman Empire, hosted many Greek and Byzantine craftsmen on its territory. In the X-XII centuries. The simplest household items and beads were made here.

From the 13th century The glass industry in Venice is developing rapidly. In 1291, in order to protect Venice from fires, a decree was issued to move all glass factories from the city to the island of Murano. Various types of vessels, mirrors, beads, buttons, beads, etc. were made there. During the Renaissance, the Venetian island of Murano (Italy) became the “capital” of beads and beads, and at the same time the trade in these items. In Naples, corals have been processed for centuries. For many centuries, the Venetian Republic strictly guarded the secrets of glass production. The most carefully kept secret of glassmaking was the production of soda, a mandatory additive to the sand from which the glass mass was made.

Since 1275, under threat of confiscation, the export of raw materials from Venice has been prohibited in order to prevent the possibility of establishing its composition. From the beginning of the 14th century. every citizen of the republic who became a glassmaker was considered to be a privileged strata of society. In the 15th century the inhabitants of the island of Murano received their own administration, their own court and their own coin. In the XV-XVII centuries. There is a flourishing of the art of Venetian glassmakers.

Venice became the only center of bead production for many centuries. She supplied beads to the East and West, where they were exchanged for gold, spices, and silks; among the peoples of Africa it was used as a bargaining chip. Enormous sales of beads went to Europe, where bead warehouses existed and bead fairs were organized. Very small (0.5 mm in diameter) and shiny beads were especially valued. Brocade beads, polished from the inside, silver-plated and gilded, were widely used in needlework.

After the discovery of America and the establishment of a sea route to India, glass workshops were replaced by glass factories built in the 16th and 17th centuries. in Spain, Portugal, the Netherlands, England and France. The jewelry trade flourished in Northern Europe. British agate beads, which had been exported since the Roman Conquest, subsequently gained great popularity during the time of Queen Victoria. In Central Europe (Bohemia, Moravia), magnificent beads were made from crystals.

At the end of the 17th - beginning of the 18th century, beads began to be made in Germany and France, and by the end of the 18th century, Bohemia (Czech Republic) became the most significant competitor of Venice, where they came up with the idea of ​​using ash instead of soda. After this, beadwork became popular in other countries.

In the second half of the 18th century, machines for drawing tubes from glass appeared, which speeded up and reduced the cost of bead production. The rivalry between Venice and Bohemia, which competed with each other for the sales market, contributed to the emergence of beads of various colors, shapes and sizes. Annual bead fairs were held in many European cities, and a permanent warehouse for the products of Venetian craftsmen was located in Nuremberg.

Since the end of the 18th century, methods of working with beads have expanded. All European fashionistas are beginning to show interest in him. Beaded clothing is coming into fashion. The collections of the State Hermitage contain many unique objects of those times, which have not yet lost their brightness and attractiveness, thanks to this durable material.

The world experienced a great flowering of the passion for beads in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Handbags, wallets, cases for chibouks, and glass holders were made from beads.

The history of beadwork goes back to ancient times. Glass beads made from beads were known already in ancient times. In Egypt, clothes were made from a beaded mesh, which was assembled from large opaque cylindrical beads. The production of beads improved, and over time they began to be made first from translucent and then from transparent glass. Beads are very small glass beads. At first they were made by wrapping a thin layer of molten glass around a metal rod.

The resulting glass tube was cut into individual pieces, and they were subsequently processed by hand to give them a rounded shape. Beads in their modern form began to be produced for the first time in Venice in glass workshops on the island of Murano in the middle of the 15th century. The secret of its manufacture was kept strictly confidential. Masters for disclosing the secret were punished according to the strictest laws, including the death penalty.

Later, beads began to be made in Bohemia. The invention of machines for making beads at the end of the 19th century made it possible to reduce the cost of production, and Bohemian beads quickly spread throughout the world. Bohemian beads were distinguished by ease of processing, clarity of glass and special cutting. In Russia, beadwork received its greatest development in the 18th century. The most common were embroidery and knitting with beads, as well as the creation of pictures by pressing beads into molten wax.

Beads were brought to Russia from Venice and Bohemia. The production of beads in our country was attempted by M.V. Lomonosov, who in 1754 created a factory for the production of bugles, beads and mosaic glass. But, unfortunately, it did not last long and closed soon after Lomonosov’s death. High quality beads are not produced in our country to this day. Beads come to us from the Czech Republic, Japan and Taiwan.

Traditional folk crafts are always an excellent occasion to use a wide variety of materials in jewelry: feathers and pieces of fur, embossed leather and wood, horn and mother of pearl, cords and chains. Pendants, wide bracelets, hryvnias, and belts are reminiscent of amulets and military armor that served as protection for many generations of our ancestors.

TO At the beginning of the 19th century, a real bead boom began in Russia. In villages, beads and glass beads have become almost a mandatory decoration of folk costume. During the long evenings, peasant women wove, weaved, weaved, embroidered collars, made beads and necklaces, decorated headdresses, belts, festive sundresses, competing in speed and dexterity. It was not for nothing that it was believed that “a village is worth a harrow and a needle.”

On landowner estates, serf girls were taught needlework in special workshops. Landowners' daughters and wives usually embroidered the main pattern, while the background was done by serf craftswomen.

In the cities, especially in Moscow, almost every house embroidered with beads, decorated houses with handicrafts, and made gifts for each other for holidays and name days. The family gathered in the living room, read aloud, played music, had conversations, and the women did needlework. Society ladies, merchants, and townswomen who excelled in this art participated in domestic and foreign exhibitions and received awards. The rich girl whiled away the time, and the poor girl earned her bread. Mastery of handicrafts served as a sign of good upbringing and home education.

Royalty also did not disdain handicrafts. In the mansions on the women's side, in a special room, church utensils were made, sometimes of very high quality; Among worldly things they loved to embroider velvet and satin scarves; they decorated ladies' hats, shoes and much more with beads.

But the real centers of needlework were the women's monasteries. Here they prepared decorations for churches, the robes of clergy were embroidered with gold, silk, silver, stones, and icons made in stockinette stitch, with pearls and beads, competed with painted icons.

Both rich fashionistas and statesmen trusted nuns-needlewomen, who decorated their uniforms with sewing. The nuns were involved in charity, especially for children: they created orphanages, taught literacy, singing and handicrafts, and gave orphan girls a craft in their hands. In the 11th century in Kyiv, the granddaughter of Yaroslav the Wise Anna-Yanka founded the first school for novices on Russian soil at the monastery.

For centuries, monasteries have collected and stored a variety of handicraft techniques. Thanks to them, we can admire beautiful works of art - icons, patriarchal vestments, royal robes in the Armory Chamber of the Moscow Kremlin and other museums in the country.

Beads have always attracted people's attention, probably since glass appeared. When did it appear? There are no reliable facts about where it was first obtained. Some agree with the legend that the discoverers of glass were Phoenician merchants. According to legend, one day merchants landed on the shore somewhere in Syria. And when they lit a fire to cook their food, they took large stones from the cargo of the ship - they wanted to use them to stand the pots. One way or another, pieces of saltpeter, which turned out to be these stones, combined with sand and melted under the influence of high temperature. A trickle of liquid glass flowed...

Or maybe it was different? Maybe Ancient Egypt was the birthplace of glass? It was there, in the tombs, that the first glass beads were found. They were colorful. Even then, the Egyptians learned to make blue, green and purple glass by adding cobalt, copper or manganese. Both men and women loved these decorations.

The name – “beads” – comes from the Arabic word “busra” or “beads”, that is, “fake pearls”. The Romans, having conquered Egypt, spread glass and bead production to the Roman Empire and then to Byzantium. After the conquest of Byzantium by the Turks, many glassmakers moved to Venice. Production settled here for many years. Venice became the main center and supplier of beads in Europe.

Glass production was moved to the island of Murano not only to avoid fires, but also to preserve the secret of glass production - Murano glass. Glaziers were forbidden to travel abroad under pain of death. Venice decorated the whole world with its beads - handbags, cases, boxes, pillows, clothes and even braids for dishes were also made of beads. In the 18th century, competitors appeared - Bohemia (Northern Bohemia). They had their own technology for making glass.

Beaded clothing decoration was so popular that it became a sign of wealth. In the language of beading one could learn a lot about the owner - from what area, what family, whether he was noble, whether he was married. And in the 19th century, exquisite toilets appeared in France - the decoration included beads and glass beads.

What do we have in Russia? Glass beads have long been known here. In the Scythian-Sarmatian era, beads were already used as decoration. But here it was more appreciated , silver and various metal jewelry.

Interest in beads appeared in the 17th century. In 1676, the first Venetian glassmakers arrived in Moscow, but the business they built lasted 30 years.

And in 1724, another attempt was made in Russia to create glass making, and in particular, bead making, but again not for long. The interest of Russian fashionistas gradually gained momentum. And finally, in 1754, a factory was opened for the production of beads, bugles, and glass for mosaics.

M.V. made special efforts. Lomonosov, although beads continued to be imported from Europe for a long time. Beadwork appeared in Russia. Women of all classes tried their hand at bead embroidery. Unique items made by the hands of serf women appeared. Amazing embroideries made from the finest beads decorated not only clothes, but also other things.

According to the recollections of contemporaries, Count Taranovsky had furniture, “all the seats were covered with amazing embroidery. Flowers, birds and fruits are embroidered on a white background...” Embroidered paintings, panels appeared, icon frames and icons were embroidered with beads, and beaded rosaries appeared. Until the 20s of the 20th century, beaded jewelry delighted and enchanted. Fashionistas especially loved dresses with beaded fringe, which created a shimmering effect during jazz dances. Everything stopped instantly - the Second World War began...

But at the end of the twentieth century, the time for the revival of beadwork came again. Talented masters carefully preserved their art. And now this type of needlework again pleases us with its uniqueness and grace. Now beadwork is in demand again. Beads will add charm and brightness to your clothes.

Products made from beads shine on catwalks, in boutiques; beads decorate jewelry and clothing, wallets, handbags, collars, belts and other accessories. Many designers use the beauty of beads in all the variety of their shine and color.

You can make many beautiful things yourself, it all depends on experience, skill, and desire. And, most importantly, patience. After all, this is exactly what any women’s needlework requires.

The grace, brilliance and brightness of the beads cannot leave you indifferent!